Athens, Part Two

I spent about an hour our first afternoon in Athens trying to find out about how to take the bus directly from Athens to Tirana, Albania. According to many sources online there was a daily night bus, but I was not having any luck finding out where it left from or how to buy tickets. Like in Turkey, all the international buses in Greece are run by individual private tour companies. The front desk at the hostel sent us to a nearby travel agency, but I knew from their website that they didn’t offer bus services. We went on our second and last morning in Athens hopeful that they could point us in the right direction. Luckily they were able to because all of the tour companies that go to Albania are located near one particular metro stop. So off we went to the metro and the when we arose from underground directly across the street from the metro station was a line of tour agencies all with buses to Albania. Within five minutes we had our tickets for that evening at 8:30 and were back on the metro.

Triumphant we returned to our hostel to book a place to stay in Triana and then went out for some last-minute sightseeing and shopping. Located near the northern slope of the Acropolis is the ancient Roman Agora. Built in the 1st century BC by the Roman leaders of Greece you enter the sight through the well-preserved Gate of Athena Archegetis.

The Roman Agora is also the site of the Tower of the Winds, built by Syrian astronomer Andronicus. It functioned as a sundial, weather vane, water clock and compass. Each side of the octagonal monument represents a point of the compass. The reliefs around the top depict the eight winds. The tower was later used by the dervishes during the Turkic period.

Very close to the Roman Agora is the Library of Hadrian. Built in the 2nd century AD, the library is the largest structure built by the Roman emperor Hadrian. It was home to books, music halls, lecture rooms, and a theatre.

Next we made our way through the nearby shopping district and down the narrow lines of shops for a little window shopping (or in my case actual shopping). From there we headed for the Panathenaic Stadium, home to the first modern Olympic Games in 1986. The stadium was build from recovered Pentelic marble from the original Panathenaic Stadium built in the 4th century BC as a venue for the Panathenaic athletic contests.

To complete our loop of central Athens we walked along the edge of the National Gardens and past the Presidential Palace. The palace was being guarded by one of the Evzones, which are the Greek army's elite ceremonial unit, but as I like to call them they are the guys in the skirts with the pom-poms on their shoes. We made our way back to Syntagma Square and down the Plaka to our hostel. We spent the rest of the evening relaxing at the hostel until it was time to meet our overnight bus to Tirana, Albania.

Next Stop: Tirana, Albania

City of Athena: Athens, Part 1

Hope you are armed with a cup of coffee and ready for a long on because this may be the longest blog post I've written thus far. What can I say it is ATHENS!! There is so much to see and so much to say about this amazing historical city as well as its modern self. We were only there for two nights, but we saw a lot. Also, instead of telling you that I went to this really old temple and that really old building I'm going to give you a bit of historical background of the sites we visited in Athens. So ready or not here we go...

In order to make it to Athens directly from Samos Island we had to take a twelve hour ferry during the day (disappointingly the overnight ferry is the one that comes from Athens to Samos). When we purchased our tickets our only choices were outside seating or inside seating for only about €10 more so we selected inside, but it turned out that we were in first class. Getting onto the boat was quite an exercise though as it arrived in the port at Karlovasi from Samos’ main port at Vathi and simply backed up to the port let down its walkway and driveway (for those transporting vehicles) and everyone began to try and get on at the same time. The boat was very comfortable with lots of leg room and comfortable seats which made the ride much more pleasant. However, one thing I learned from the large amount of children onboard is that they have the ability to run around and play all during the ride unlike on an airplane where they must sit still. There were kids playing catch and tag and babies crying and screaming for a large portion of the ride. Luckily as the owner of an iPod I was able to ignore most of it and try and get a bit of work done on my final grad school research paper.


The Nissos Mykonos (Our Ferry to Athens)

We made it into Athens and off the boat around 9pm and set out to find the metro station. Robby (who thankfully has a great sense of direction as I do not) had already figured out how to make it to our hostel in central Athens from the port via the metro. It took quite a bit of walking to get to station, but all in all it was simple journey. Although due to metro construction we were unaware off the train did not stop at our stop and continued on to the next. Not wanting to get too far out of the way we got off at the next stop and found a map to try and figure out how to get to our hostel. An older man on the stopped train called Robby over and told him that because of construction the train skipped our stop, but was now going back to it. After he told us this of course the train doors shut and it left the station to go where we wanted to be. We dragged ourselves down labyrinth of stairs to get to the other platform so that we could go back one stop. Fortunately our hostel was very close to the metro stop and after a minute walk we made it the hostel around 10pm. Exhausted we had one last hurdle before rest could come because our hostel room was on the fifth floor and there was no elevator! It was all worth it in the end because we had a breathtaking view of the Acropolis perched over the city and all lit up from our balcony.


Night view of the Acropolis


Monastiraki Square

The next day we tried to get an early start so that we could beat the heat and the crowds for our day if sightseeing in Athens. First we walked from our hostel in Monastiraki Square to the entrance on the northern slope of the Acropolis. We made it to the top of the Acropolis and to the main entrance at Propylaia. This section of the Acropolis is home to the Propylaia, the Beulé Gate, and the Temple of Athena Nike.


The Propylaia

The Propylaia formed the towering entrance to the Acropolis in ancient times. It was built between 437 BC and 432 BC by Mnesicles. It is made up of a central hall with two wings on either side. The stairs lead up the main section lined by columns to the beginning of the Panthenaic Way.


The Panthenaic Way

The Panathenaic Way cuts across the middle of the Acropolis and was the route taken by the Panathenaic procession. The Panathenaic procession was the climax of the Panathenaia festival which celebrated the birthday of Athena.


Temple of Athena Nike

The Temple of Athena Nike is a small square temple perched atop the southwest edge of the Acropolis, to the right of the Propylaia.


The Parthenon

After making our way up the stairs of the Propylaia we saw the grand jewel of the Acropolis – The Parthenon. History refresher courtesy of my trust Lonely Planet guidebook – the Parthenon was built on the highest part of the Acropolis to house the great statue of Athena by Pericles and to serve as the new treasury. It was designed by Ictinus and Callicrates, under the surveillance of Pheidias. It was built between 447 BC and 438 BC. While it appears simple in form the Parthenon’s perfect form was achieved through the use of optical illusions. In order for the foundation to appear perfectly level to the observer it is actually slightly concave. The columns are slightly convex to make them appear straight. Most of the damage to the Parthenon was caused by an explosion in 1687. You see during this time the Turks were storing gunpowder inside the Parthenon and when the Venetians attacked it caused an open fire on the Acropolis, causing an explosion in the Parthenon. More recently acid rain has been dissolving the marble.


Me & The Parthenon

Across the Panathenaic Way is the Erechtheion, built on the part of the Acropolis held most sacred. The spot is where myth tells us that Poseidon struck the ground with his trident and were Athena produced the olive tree. Wait you don’t know that story, well…


The Erechtheion

According to mythology, shortly after Kekrops founded a city on a huge rock near the sea the gods of Olympus proclaimed that the city should be named after the deity who could produce the most valuable legacy for mortals. Athena, the goddess of wisdom, produced an olive tree, symbol of peace and prosperity. Poseidon, the god of the sea, struck a rock with his trident and a horst sprang forth, symbolizing the qualities of strength and fortitude. The gods judged that Athena’s gift would better serve the citizens of Athens than the arts of war personified by Poseidon’s gift (again thank you Lonely Planet Greece).

Anyways back to the Erechtheion….it was named after Erichthonius, a mythical king of Athens. It is best known for its six large maiden columns that support its southern portico. These columns are known as the Caryatids because the models for them were women of Karyai who were known for the poise. The ones now at the Erechtheion are plaster casts of the originals. The five of the originals are housed in the new Acropolis Museum, while one was removed by Lord Elgin (a British architect who took many things from the Acropolis back to the museum in London). It was constructed between 421 BC and 406 BC.


The Caryatids

After descending part way down the southern slope of the Acropolis we came to the Theatre of Dionysos. The ruins are from the reconstructed theatre built between 342 BC and 326 BC, with a seating capacity of 17,000 spread over 64 tiers, of which about 20 remain.


Theatre of Dionysos

Next up was the Temple of Zeus, the largest temple in Greece. It was begun in the 6th century BC, but abandoned due to lack of money. It was left incomplete until Roman emperor Hadrian (who had a great fondness for Greek culture) completed it in AD 131. It was made up of 104 Corinthian columns (the ones that look like pineapples on top). There are 15 columns remaining today.


At the Temple of Zeus


Parliament Building in Syntagma Square

Following our visit to the Temple of Zeus we walked to Syntagma Square, home of the Parliament and the heart of modern Athens. From there we walked down the Plaka, the old Turkish quarter now full of shops. After stopping for a lunch of mousakka and a stop for frozen coffee at Starbucks we headed off to tour the Ancient Agora.


Walking Down the Plaka

The Ancient Agora was Athens’ central meeting place during ancient times. The Agora was the center of administrative, commercial, political and social activity in ancient Athens. Socrates spent a lot of time there expounding his philosophy and in AD 49 Saint Paul preached daily in the Agora attempting to win over converts to Christianity. The Temple of Hephaestus (449 BC) sits upon a hill overlooking the Ancient Agora. There is also a reconstruction of the now destroyed Stoa of Attalos, which housed expensive shops during ancient times and is now home to the Ancient Agora museum.


Temple of Hephaestus


Stoa of Attalos

After all that sightseeing we were starving so we stopped for a nice al fresco seafood dinner at a local restaurant. We enjoyed a salad with grilled Greek cheese and balsamic vinaigrette with pan-fried shrimp, mussels, calamari, and octopus. We took a post-dinner stroll up to the top of Filopappou Hill or the Hill of the Muses. The hill, which is located southwest of the Acropolis, is topped by the Monument of Filopappos, built to honor Julius Antiochus Filopappos a prominent Roman consul and administrator. The hill offers amazing sunset views and photo-ops of Athens, the Parthenon, and the Saronic Gulf.


Filopappou Hill from the Acropolis


Sunset over Athens from Filopappou Hill

Next Stop: Athens, part 2

Samos Island, Greece

We arrived on Samos Island via a ferry from Kuşadası around eleven in the morning. The boat brought us to Vathi port, the main port located in the northeastern part of the island, in the largest town on the island known as Samos Town. Samos Island is home to about 33,000 people and is 447 square kilometers in size. Tourists from Turkey often come to this island for a quick visit due to its proximity to Kuşadası. Hoping to explore more than just the island’s main port with its many visitors and crowded streets we decided to stay in the town of Karlovasi, located in the northwestern part of Samos Island. After getting directions at the port we made our way down the main road to the bus station to see about taking a bus to Karlovasi. It took us about one-and-a-half hours to reach Karlovasi by bus, which was a spectacular ride along a coastal road winding up and down hills overlooking the bright blue water of the Aegean Sea.


One of the many adorable churches in Karlovasi


Samos is known for it's lovely mansions

Once we arrived in Karlovasi we dropped of our bags at our hotel (that’s right we got to stay in an actual hotel instead of hostel because there are no hostels on the island) and went out for a lunch (I enjoyed a pork gyro pita and a coffee frappe). Following lunch we walked around the town a bit enjoying its narrow cobblestone streets and quaint red-tiled buildings. Apparently mid-afternoon on a Greek island is siesta time because most of the stores were closed and the streets were deserted. Worn out from the hills and the heat we walked back to our hotel and I spent the afternoon by the pool. Later that day we decided to go for another stroll around town and we ended up making it to the waterfront road just in time to watch the end of the sunset over the water. After a stop for some ice cream we headed back to the hotel for the evening.


Downtown Karlovasi



The next day we went our separate ways because Robby is not a fan of water or the beach so Robby head off on the bus to visit Pythagorio, home town of Pythagoras (as in the Pythagorean Theorem), in the southeastern part of the island. Meanwhile I decided to hit the nearest beach. Potami Beach is located about one mile from the center of Karlovasi and the walk there is all along the waterfront. I spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in a lounge chair and swimming in the Aegean Sea. The water was the perfect temperature with a nice tide. Robby and I met up at the hotel after our adventures and went out for a dinner of traditional Greek food – delicious Karlovasi, Samos, Greece


At the beach

On our last day on Samos Island we walked to the port and purchased our ferry tickets to Athens and then I went back to the beach and Robby explored the hills surrounding the town. We met back up for dinner and when we returned to our hotel there was large party going on outside on the patio near the pool. We never figured out exactly what the party was for, but we spent the evening being serenaded by a small band playing traditional Greek music.

Next Stop: Athens, Greece

On the Turkish Coast: Selçuk, Ephesus, and Kuşadası

Traveling on the overnight bus from Istanbul to Selçuk we arrived at our hostel around 8:30 in the morning. We stayed at Atilla’s Getaway, a hostel recommended to us by Armenia PCVs, a bit outside of the town. It was perfect – quite, great views, a swimming pool, hammocks, and great food – for two days of relaxing. Exhausted from the trip since even when I manage to sleep on an overnight bus I never feel rested I spend the day reading, napping, and lounging by the pool. The hostel had a package deal where for like five dollars more a night you got breakfast (choice of 6 meals including french toast) and dinner. It was nice eating dinner together at picnic tables outside with all the fellow guests. We met a lot of travelers from Australia, where it seems to be a requirement to take 6 months to a year to travel, and an English teacher from Paris. I wish I had photos of the hostel to share with you, but I was having such a great time that I did not take any pictures.



On our second day in Selçuk we visited the historic site of Ephesus in the morning. First we took the hostel’s free transport to the bus station in town and then took a short minibus ride to the site. Ephesus was an ancient Greek city and later a Roman city. It was the second largest city of the Roman Empire for many years ranking behind Rome. It was home to the famed Temple of Artemis (completed around 550 BC) and one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The temple was destroyed in 410 AD by a mob led by St. John Chrysostom, an important figure in the early Christian church. The Emperor Constantine I rebuilt much of the city. Ephesus was one of the seven churches of Asia cited in the Book of Revelations.


The Theatre


The Roman Library of Celsus



It is believed that the Gospel of John may have been written in Ephesus and the city was home to several 5th century ecclesiastical councils. The Church of Mary, an early 5th century AD church, is located at Ephesus although all that is left is the remnants of walls.


Ruins of the Church of Mary

On our walk back see the Church of Mary we were treated to a little Roman bit of the Roman times in Ephesus.



After two days in Selçuk we traveled by minibus to Kuşadası for one night to closer to the port. After checking into our hostel we walked around the market and stopped for a lunch of kebab. Later we toured to waterfront and enjoyed some stuffed clams and fried calamari at a waterfront restaurant by the port. This day happened to be my grandmother and great aunt's 75th birthday and my whole family and their friends (104 people to be exact) were at a birthday party. Luckily I was able to call them on Skype from the hostel and wish them both all the best and let them know how much I loved them on such a monumental birthday.


Kuşadası's Waterfront

Walking around town we stumbled upon an old castle that is now like a little public park.



Next Stop: Karlovasi - Samos Island, Greece

Leaving Armenia Part Two: Istanbul

We arrived in Istanbul around 6 am local time and decided to take an airport shuttle to our hostel because we had flown into the airport on the Asian side of the city and our hostel was on the European side. The guide book said that the journey could take up to two hour, but I thought that had to be an overestimation. In the end it took a little over two hours before we got dropped off in the Sultanahmet section of the city. The views driving across the Bosporus Bridge, the main way across between the Asian and European sides of the city were amazing. We arrived at our hostel around 9:30am, but we couldn’t check into our room until 1:30pm so we walked around a bit and got some baklava and ice cream and then relaxed on the hostel’s rooftop patio. By the time we checked into our room I was so exhausted that I took a three hour nap. Later we went out for dinner at a nearby restaurant with an excellent view of the water.


The Bosporus Bridge





After dinner I enjoyed some drinks at the hostel bar with some of our roommates – a brother and sister from Toronto and a guy who is Foreign Service Officer. Around midnight while everyone was getting ready for bed a stray cat made it into our room and hid under the beds. We managed to get it out and next thing we know he is back inside. I had to take my scarf and use it to lure the cat out from under the bed and we shut the door and shut the front door to the hostel. All this time Robby is half asleep in bed wondering what is going on. Somehow the cat managed to sneak in a third time while people are milling in and out. As one of the guys is taking the cat out a third time the guy working at the hostel front desk says we are being too loud and we are like well if you would shut the door we would not be trying to get a stray cat out of our room at midnight!

The next morning after a Turkish breakfast on the hostel patio we went to the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya. The location of our hostel was perfect – really close to all the major sites in Sultanahmet. The Blue Mosque was built between 1609 and 1619. Aya Sofya (Church of Holy Wisdom) was built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian and was completed in 537 AD. It was the grandest church in Christendom until the Conquest of Constantinople in 1453. It was converted into a mosque and the Byzantine mosaics were covers (because Islam prohibits images) and the mosaics were not revealed until the 1930s, when Atatürk declared the site a museum.


The Blue Mosque


Inside The Blue Mosque


Aya Sofya


Inside Aya Sofya

Next we explored the Grand Bazaar, which was not like what I was expecting. In my mind it would be this large outdoor market full of stalls and in reality it was inside and more like a mall made up of tiny little shops.

Hot and exhausted we decided to get some lunch. I enjoyed some pide (Turkish pizza – an oblong crust filled with tomato sauce, peppers, and diced bits of lamb) and a restaurant near our hostel with big couches full of pillows on which to enjoy the shade and easy breeze. We sat at the restaurant for about two hours relaxing with some apple tea and Turkish coffee.

Later in the day we went to the Basilica Cistern, which is an underground water storage area built by Constantine and enlarged by Justinian. There are fish that still live inside the cistern. Then we went on a walk along the waterfront and back to the hostel where we spent the evening enjoying the cool evening breeze off the water. During the day it was hot and sunny with a nice breeze and in the evening it was really cool.


Fish swimming inside the cistern


Medusa head to protect the cistern

The next day we toured Topkapi Palace, which was begun by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453 and where Ottoman sultans lived until the 19th century.


Part of Topkapi Palace


Tile inside one of the palace rooms



Next we walked to the Galata Bridge that connects Sultanahmet with the Golden Horn. There are restaurants on the bridge and we stopped there for lunch (yummy stuffed mussels!!) before our Bosporus cruise. The cruise up the Bosporus was amazing – sitting on the deck enjoying the breeze, watching the teal blue water. From the boat we saw Dolmabahçe Palace (built between 1843 and 1856 as home for some of the last Ottoman sultans and where Atatürk died in 1938) and Ortaköy Mosque (built between 1854 and 1856 by Ottoman sultan Abdülmecid). It took about an hour-and-a-half to get to the opening of the Bosporus to the Black Sea. Once there we had about an hour to walk around before the return boat left. We stopped for coffee and pastries at a little café. Once we returned from our cruise we had a relaxing dinner near our hostel and a quite night.


On the boat!


Dolmabahçe Palace


Ortaköy Mosque

We spent out last day in Istanbul doing a little window shopping, enjoying the views from the hostel’s terrace, and preparing for our night bus to Selçuk

Next Stop: Selçuk, Ephesus, and Kuşadasi